News

THE PROBLEM WITH MONDAYS (AND BLAZERS) Posted on 29 Nov 18:59

As you probably know already, a blazer is different from a jacket because of its original purpose: these were common items in the wardrobes of Captains during the good-old fashioned age of navy battles, when men used to be the breadwinners, wear pants and never moan about circumstances (or days of the week), and the women used to be amazing, wonderful, sensitive creatures with long skirts.

Alberto Sordi: A Knight of Grand Cross Posted on 17 Nov 12:53

Alberto Sordi in "I Magliari"

I’ve been hesitating about this guy. I mean, I love him and his movies, but his style is not my style. However, he is here for  a straightforward reason: Sordi represents - like perhaps nobody else - the average Italian, or the “Mario Rossi”, if you will (Average Joe). To be even more precise, Sordi is the quintessential Modern Roman Gentleman.

For those of you who have never heard of him: Sordi is regarded in Italy, and especially among Romans, as some sort of popular hero. His movies have entered the collective imagination of modern Italian culture and many of his famous quotes are an integral part of idiomatic Italiano. Italian comedian and director Carlo Verdone, with whom Sordi was very close, once stated during an interview that his mentor was some sort of “Radical Catholic”. He was probably hinting at the fact that Sordi was a true believer, but nevertheless, no exactly what you call your average Catholic. To give you an idea of his personality, here’s a famous quote. Sordi was once asked why he wasn’t married and he answered: “Me, Married? Do you really expect me to put a stranger in my home?” 

Alberto Sordi was not just an extremely prolific actor (200 movies circa), but also an accomplished director and, most importantly, he was made a “Knight of Grand Cross” of the Italian Republic and that’s an incredible accomplishment. He also received many official recognitions for his work - for example, seven “David di Donatello” film award, among others. But some say that the most important achievement of his career was the unconditional love of his fellow Roman citizens. When he passed away following a heart attack back in 2003, a crowd of almost a million people gathered at the Basilica of St. John Lateran to say goodbye. Some claim that when Pope John Paul the Second gave up his ghost two years later, the piazza wasn’t as crowded.

However, we are here to discuss Sordi’s style. And the only reason why I spent a few extra-words for his bio is because I miss him. I feel sorry for all the people that will never be able to enjoy one of his movies, because they can’t really understand Italian. But, as I said, Sordi style is not exactly my cup of tea. There was too much London in his outfits. One may think that  one can never be too British when it comes to dressing well, but I would object. You see? If you were born and raised in Italy, then you must act and dress like an Italian, it isn’t a question of choice: it’s imperative. National identity being crucial for personal development and cultural identity. An healthy fascination with foreign cultures is auspicabile in a gentleman (especially with Anglo-Saxon culture), but excess is never a good thing. “In medio stat virtus”, the ancient Romans used to say: virtue is to be found in the balance between too much and too little of anything. 

This is the reason why I picked this outfit for Sordi: it is simple, classical, well put-together, timeless. Camel jackets are perfect in wintertime, they are somewhat hydro-repellant and they can easily keep moisture and cold winds at bay. Style must be functional, remember? Add a camel jacket to your wardrobe and you will always have something to wear in wintertime. Some modern Men’s Style websites and self-proclaimed style gurus would want you to pair a light-brown camel jacket with black pants. Don’t do that! Black and brown NEVER go well together. Go for Navy blue, instead. The muted color of the jacket would still pop-out, but you’ll be safe from the sarcastic remarks of the usual connoisseur that always lurks around the corner when you decide to go for the “personal” style approach, and that would be me: God forgives, John Cravatta doesn't. Remember, you aren’t a trend-setter, the Duke of Windsor or even Gianni Agnelli: play safe. 

Notice how, Sordi being a Roman, he effortlessly understands the brown-with-blue rule: his madder tie is also simple and works perfectly with the ensemble. Also, notice how well he tied his necktie. That’s an half-Windsor know, correct: Sordi loved Windsors and half-Windsors, that’s one of the main reasons why I don’t like his style. The “fighetta” (little pussy), is there and it is perfect. Huh, pardon: that would be the dimple. Romans sometimes can be quite rude. There’s another thing or two to point out about the necktie and about how Sordi understands style quite effortlessly: that’s an English-spread collar you see on that shirt, which means that the choice of an half-Windsor knot is quite appropriate indeed: bravo, Alberto!

The other thing being: the slope! The necktie doesn’t look like a dying roadkill on the chest, but it’s lively instead. Consider also geometry: look at how the cuts of the collar form a continuum with the lapels on the jacket and go well with the knot as well. On this point, come to think about it: here’s the problem with the ensemble: the necktie is too thin for those lapels. However, the color of the shirt is appropriate (notice there are cufflinks, instead of buttons) and the choice of the wristwatch too. So, we’ll forgive Alberto this minor mistake.


CARY GRANT: TIMELESS STYLE Posted on 10 Nov 19:00

cary grant style timeless tie shop rome neckties

Even though one can’t be absolutely sure, judging by the picture, this is most probably a three buttons, bespoke tailored suit. But obviously: it is made in flannel and the color is Arapawa green. One can also clearly se the chalk stripes, structured shoulders - once again - as well as the notch lapels. The suit might have jetted pockets, too. 

The devil is always in the details... the vest, for example, isn’t exactly the same color of the suit, it’s in teal blue-green and it looks as if it were made in wool, not flannel. Also: no stripes!

The shirt is in cotton, Tasman grey. That’s another English-spread collar, in case you’re curious about it. And notice another thing: that’s a Windsor knot, not a four-in-hand knot. The  pocket square is in Congo brown: good choice. And the necktie itself is in silk and it sports what looks like a tight windowpane pattern, or it could be chalk stripes, either way: it works.

The tie is in Friar grey and that’s a good thing: you don’t want more colours in here. This suit would look great in the English country side. That’s not a shooting jacket but it does have a country flavour to it. If you are in America, or elsewhere in the world, this would also look great in the city. But the most important thing to keep in mind is that this suit, even though is old, would still look wonderfully even today. That’s because style never goes out of fashion: it's timeless! 


I Love American Graveyards Posted on 10 Oct 12:09

John Cravatta as "The Mad Hatter"

I like American graveyards. Actually, I like American everything. Whatever.

Anyways, I do not suggest you should attend a funeral dressed like this, or even a wedding. Rule of thumb for this kind of events is: discretion. You don’t want to be the best-dressed man of the event. I tried hard to be discrete, the other day, at my best friend’s funeral… ehm… wedding. But I didn’t succeed. You see? At some point a group of rather interesting youngsters (the friends of my best friend’s brother) invited me at their table and told me that, in their opinion, I was by far the best dressed man at the wedding.

I replied: “I take it as a compliment”, but that was a little white lie. God forgive me. Inside me, I knew I had failed. No seriously: you need to be discrete sometimes. Today’s outfit is an archive image because I got fat at the wedding. Doh!  

I call this outfit, “The Mad-Hatter”: the fun-check linen jacket with notch lapels and patch pockets is from @spadaroma - main color? Resolution-blue. The straw fedora hat in dark-polo blue is also from Spada, one of my favorite clothing stores in Rome. They have great non-expensive  stuff. But I got this pair of types of denims in periwinkle blue by @rehashjeansmaker from @m_o_s_c_a . I love them. They don’t fit me now, but they will fit me again eventually… The Carmine Red seven-folds silk necktie is from @tieshoprome, as well as the tiebar and the white pocket square. I’m also wearing my favorite shoes, a pair of oxfords in brown pod, from Wilton of London. Speaking of which: they are more comfortable than sneakers!

That’s a vintage Philip Watch at my wrist, russet-brown strap. And I’m also wearing a leather belt in dark Brown from the Tie Shop Rome. Thanks to my friend @marian_vitel for the tailoring. Actually, I take that back: it’s his job, why should I thank him?  

What can you say about this outfit?